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the roots of japanese food







Wakayama Prefecture
map


Wakayama Prefecture, located on the southwestern part of the Kii Peninsula, began its development under the rule of Kii branch of the Tokugawa family during the Edo period (1603-1867). Appropriate to its nickname "land of the trees," the prefecture is almost entirely occupied by mountains and trees, along with 600km of coastline. It is indeed rich in natural resources. The climate is generally warm throughout the four seasons, and the people are characterized as always moving forward, but leading simple, and fortitude lives. It has long been noted for its Buddhist (Koyasan, or Mt. Koya) and Shinto (Kumano Sanzan) holy places, and this, coupled with its oceanic culture, makes it quite a fascinating land. Its cuisine has affected the culinary world, as we are able to enjoy numerous regional foods with fresh ingredients harvested from both the mountains and oceans of Wakayama.

 

Simple Tastes of the Ocean and Mountains


sushi
photo from top/saba zushi,mehari zushi,kakinoha zushi,sanma zushi

Gifts from the mountains are the many different types of fruits grown in its mild, sunny climate. Popular from the Edo period are the mandarin oranges, plums and hassaku-orange, which accounts for more than 50% of the nation's total harvest. Navel oranges account for more than 20%, and the rest is found in peaches and persimmons. As for the plums grown in Kiinan area (Southern part of Wakayama Prefecture) such as Tanabe-city, Nambu-cho, and Nambu village, they are by far number one both in the amount grown and sold in Japan. Kishu dried plums are the most popular of their kind, with a long history of production, dating back to when the region was assisted by the government during the Edo period.

There are two varieties of plums. One - most suited for pickles and the best of its kind - is called nanko-ume. The other, a first class blue plum most suitable for plum wine and juice, is known as gojiro-ume. Nanko-ume, with its thin pericarp and large pieces, is the base for kishu dried plum, a very popular delicacy. Each plum is hand picked during the rainy season and pickled for one and a half months with only natural salt. After letting the pickled plums mature, each plum is then dried under the sun for three whole days and three whole nights. After being pickled again, you now have the delicious and unique Kishu ume-boshi (salted, pickled plum).

The gifts from the sea include dishes made with blue sprat, moray eel and parrotfish. This region has also introduced a variety of sushi, giving Wakayama another name "Kishu, the land of sushi."

One of the most interesting varieties of sushi, nare-sushi, dates back to the Manyo period (710~784). As with funa-zushi (crucian carp sushi) of Shiga Prefecture, the source of nigiri-zushi is said to be found here. Nigiri-zushi, includes rice with fish wrapped in bamboo or banana plant leaf and fermented over time. Various types of fish are used for this sushi, including yellowfin horse mackerel, barracuda, Japanese Spanish mackerel, cutlass, pike, and sweetfish, but the most common fish used is chub mackerel.
Although the funa-zushi of Shiga, using Omi 0 rice, is served after the rice is washed off, the nare-zushi of Wakayama is prepared and served together with rice. This is due to the fact that rice harvest in Kinan is a scarce and important part of people's lives.

 

Although this nare-zushi was a necessity during festive times, its time consuming fermentation process and pungent odor gave rise to its other name, kusare-zushi (smelly sushi). In recent years, cooks have begun to prepare the fish in vinegar, then combined with vinegared rice and allowed to sit over night, making it a "hayanare-zushi, (quick nare-zushi) and enjoyed by people for lunch and snacks.

The sanma zushi (Pacific saury sushi) uses the cutlass pike fish which comes south to Kumano-nada from the open sea of Sanriku during the fall - winter months. This lean-fleshed fish is quite tender and most suitable for sushi. With its distinct taste, it has become a popular New Year's delite (Shogatu Ryori).

There is also suzume-zushi, which was named after its appearance. The fresh sea bream from the Kata Sea looks as if the pink fukura suzume (a fat sparrow) is dancing. Originating during the Genpei period, it was most suitable for the castle town of Kii Tokunaga family.

One can also find types of sushi using harvests form the mountains. One variety mixes eastern Kii's produce takana (hot salted vegetable) with rice. Due to its large size, it is called mehari-zushi, meaning, "so big that your eyes are attached." There is another theory that the takana is so hot that your eyes pop out, or you have to be on the look out so that the rice ball does not fall apart. It developed from bentos (lunches) people brought while they worked in the mountains. There is also sushi using shiroita-konbu (kelp with its surface scraped off) or yuba (dried bean curd). There are so many kinds of sushi; it is no wonder they call it the land of sushi!

Lastly, let's looking at the various seasonings. Soybean which is added to gluten from rice and wheat, mixed with eggplants, melon, ginger and sesame is fermented for over a six month period to make the Kaizanji miso (bean paste) which was brought to Kishu area's Yuasa from China's Kaizanji during the mid Kamakura period (1192- 1333). Yuasa is said to be the place of origin of Yuasa soy sauce, which is yet another specialty Wakayama has brought us.
Plum trees plum tenbi boshi Shionomisaki
Plum trees plum tenbi boshi Shionomisaki
  Wakayama Tourism Federation
TEL.073-422-4631
http://wiwi.co.jp/kanko/world/english/index.html
Katuura fishing port
Katuura
fishing port


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