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Gifts from the mountains are the many different types of fruits
grown in its mild, sunny climate. Popular from the Edo period
are the mandarin oranges, plums and hassaku-orange, which
accounts for more than 50% of the nation's total harvest. Navel
oranges account for more than 20%, and the rest is found in peaches
and persimmons. As for the plums grown in Kiinan area (Southern
part of Wakayama Prefecture) such as Tanabe-city, Nambu-cho, and
Nambu village, they are by far number one both in the amount grown
and sold in Japan. Kishu dried plums are the most popular of their
kind, with a long history of production, dating back to when the
region was assisted by the government during the Edo period.
There are two varieties of plums. One - most suited for pickles
and the best of its kind - is called nanko-ume. The other,
a first class blue plum most suitable for plum wine and juice, is
known as gojiro-ume. Nanko-ume, with its thin pericarp
and large pieces, is the base for kishu dried plum, a very popular
delicacy. Each plum is hand picked during the rainy season and pickled
for one and a half months with only natural salt. After letting
the pickled plums mature, each plum is then dried under the sun
for three whole days and three whole nights. After being pickled
again, you now have the delicious and unique Kishu ume-boshi
(salted, pickled plum).
The gifts from the sea include dishes made with blue sprat, moray
eel and parrotfish. This region has also introduced a variety of
sushi, giving Wakayama another name "Kishu, the land of sushi."
One of the most interesting varieties of sushi, nare-sushi,
dates back to the Manyo period (710~784). As with funa-zushi
(crucian carp sushi) of Shiga Prefecture, the source
of nigiri-zushi is said to be found here. Nigiri-zushi,
includes rice with fish wrapped in bamboo or banana plant leaf and
fermented over time. Various types of fish are used for this sushi,
including yellowfin horse mackerel, barracuda, Japanese Spanish
mackerel, cutlass, pike, and sweetfish, but the most common fish
used is chub mackerel.
Although the funa-zushi of Shiga, using Omi 0 rice, is served
after the rice is washed off, the nare-zushi of Wakayama
is prepared and served together with rice. This is due to the fact
that rice harvest in Kinan is a scarce and important part of people's
lives.
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Although this nare-zushi
was a necessity during festive times, its time consuming fermentation
process and pungent odor gave rise to its other name, kusare-zushi
(smelly sushi). In recent years, cooks have begun to prepare
the fish in vinegar, then combined with vinegared rice and allowed
to sit over night, making it a "hayanare-zushi, (quick nare-zushi)
and enjoyed by people for lunch and snacks.
The sanma zushi (Pacific saury sushi) uses the cutlass pike
fish which comes south to Kumano-nada from the open sea of Sanriku
during the fall - winter months. This lean-fleshed fish is quite tender
and most suitable for sushi. With its distinct taste, it has become
a popular New Year's delite (Shogatu Ryori).
There is also suzume-zushi, which was named after its appearance.
The fresh sea bream from the Kata Sea looks as if the pink fukura
suzume (a fat sparrow) is dancing. Originating during the Genpei
period, it was most suitable for the castle town of Kii Tokunaga family.
One can also find types of sushi using harvests form the mountains.
One variety mixes eastern Kii's produce takana (hot salted
vegetable) with rice. Due to its large size, it is called mehari-zushi,
meaning, "so big that your eyes are attached." There is another theory
that the takana is so hot that your eyes pop out, or you have to be
on the look out so that the rice ball does not fall apart. It developed
from bentos (lunches) people brought while they worked in the
mountains. There is also sushi using shiroita-konbu (kelp
with its surface scraped off) or yuba (dried bean curd). There
are so many kinds of sushi; it is no wonder they call it the land
of sushi!
Lastly, let's looking at the various seasonings. Soybean which is
added to gluten from rice and wheat, mixed with eggplants, melon,
ginger and sesame is fermented for over a six month period to make
the Kaizanji miso (bean paste) which was brought to Kishu area's
Yuasa from China's Kaizanji during the mid Kamakura period (1192-
1333). Yuasa is said to be the place of origin of Yuasa soy sauce,
which is yet another specialty Wakayama has brought us. |
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