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Lake Biwa, the largest lake in Japan, dates back to four million years ago, and is considered one of the oldest lakes on the earth. The depth of the lake is similar to that of the sea, so it was once referred to as awa umi (fresh sea), which is also the root of the word "Omi" (an old term for Shiga). There is more than 50 types of fish in the lake, some which can only be found in Lake Biwa. The lake provides an abundant supply of freshwater fish and indeed, it is a world class natural treasure. In Shiga Prefecture where one sixth of the area is Lake Biwa, there was abundant fish supply, which fed our people for over centuries. |
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| Kohoku (northen Lake biwa) | |
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"The culinary culture of Shiga Prefecture lies in rice and freshwater fish. With
beans, vegetables and potatoes, we were able to enjoy a well balanced diet," speaks
Professor Horikoshi Masako of Shiga University. Professor Horikoshi teaches on
nutrition and also acts as a manager for a study group focusing on Shigas culinary
culture. She has also written several books on Shiga Prefectures food, and
is trying to preserve the local taste of Shiga.
Shiga is geographically situated in an area that has plains constituting more than twice the size of Lake Biwa. It also has fresh underground water from surrounding mountains,
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| fresh water fish dishes |
and is famous for its rice. Currently, the production
of the high quality "Omi rice" is distributed to the Keihanshin (Osaka,
Kobe and Kyoto) and Chukyo (Nagoya) areas where rice is heavily consumed.
Consequently, a variety of freshwater fish from the lake includes
crucian carp, ayu and willow minow. A marriage of crucian carp and
Omi rice resulted in funa zushi (sushi), a representative
of Shigas food.
Funa zushi originated in agricultural societies of southern China,
Thailand, Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam. It is a food using the fermentation
process of the grain to its full advantage - a specialty of rice -
making people. This nare zushi was also made in parts of Kyushu, Chubu
and Kanto, but most of it has disappeared from our tables. Only here
in Shiga has it remained. The process was conveyed to the next generation
and in trying to differentiate the taste with that of other families,
it has become a delicacy you cannot find in other areas.
The season for crucian carp is very short, only the months of mid
February to mid April when the eggs are about to hatch. The type of
carp most suited for funa zushi is nigorobuna (round crucian
carp) a type special to Lake Biwa. Nigorobuna comes from the
phrase "niru ni koroai (just ready to boil)," which has a similar
intonation. The scales are removed while the fish is still alive and
its intestines are carefully taken out in a process called tsubo
nuki. The stomach is left with only eggs in it and stuffed with
salt, and stored until the summertime. During the hottest summer days,
it is washed and dried, and re-pickled again, and this time stuffed
with Omi rice. Finally, after two years, we are able to enjoy this
funa zushi.
It is said that the best way to enjoy funa zushi is to thinly
slice it and to have it with sake, but it is also good boiled and
eaten with soy sauce. You can also have it as a topping on ochazuke
(rice with green tea or stock poured over the top). The fermentation
process adds a very distinct aroma, similar to that of cheese, allowing
you to enjoy both sweet and sour taste at once. It used to be a food
for special occasions such as New Year's, festivals, funerals, and
other services. Unbelievable amount of time and preparation is required
for this delicacy.
The ports of Imazu and Kaizu flourished, with small vessels tying
Hokuriku and Yamato (Nara) on the western side of Lake Biwa.
Another local dish, amenoio gohan (Biwa trout with rice) was
a favorite. Amenoio is a trout with eggs, and is named after
the trout caught on the surface of the lake on the autumn rainy days.
The rice is cooked together with fried bean curd and burdock, an original
dish from the western side of the lake and is served at get-togethers.
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| hinona |
The amenoio gohan is served with freshwater
clam soup, pickled fish and pickled vegetables. One is able to enjoy
an entire meal made with everything form the catch and local produce
of Lake Biwa.
Lake Biwa supports the lives and industry of 14 million people,
and faces critical problems such as water pollution and decrease
of its seasonal catch. There is a reality that local food is on
the verge of extinction. The people of Shiga's culinary culture
studies group is now standing up to make a stop in such a movement.
Professor Horikoshi and her colleagues are trying to promote "traditional
cooking" to the "fast food" generation. They are trying to preserve
the messages behind the cooking of the people who lived in the Omi
area. Living together with Lake Biwa and protecting the cooking
methods and recipes is an important gift for us to give to the next
generation.
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| ebi mame |
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| seta sijimi soup |
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| amenoio gohan |
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| funa zushi | |
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