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For centuries, Osaka has been called the city of kuidaore (one who indulges in food until bankrupt). Here, one is able to find variety of inexpensive ingredients as Osaka has fully taken advantage of its geographical location and developed itself into an important distribution center. Osaka's development as an important culinary center has been influenced by its geography -mountains behind and facing the sea, Osaka gathered goods from distant Hokkaido and Hokuriku areas by boat which arrived via the Inland Sea. Consequently, Osaka can be regarded as the starting point for the nation's palate.
It was a natural course of action for Osakans to become savvy consumers conscious of affordable prices and resulting in the demand for reasonably priced goods. With the limited number of samurais in the city, people tended to ignore hierarchy and any intentions resulting in innovative and competitive markets. Good taste is a given, and must be inexpensive - this philosophy applies to Osakans today
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Morning at a wholesale market which supports Kansai's palate
It is 3 AM in the Osaka Municipal Wholesale Market; and it is bustling with people and automobiles going through this large market. At 4:15AM, the auction for tuna and marlin called futomono (the big one) begins. At the place where auction is to take place, there is already tuna and marlin from around the world. The tags on the fish specify their origin read; Peru, Bali (Indonesia), the Mediterranean Sea, Amami, Okinawa, and more.
A intermediate wholesaler is already here and begins to carefully check the section of the tail, checking for its fat and the sharpness of the coloration with his trained eyes and experienced tongue. Before you know it, there is an increase in the number of brokers and at the sign of the bell; the auction begins in high spirits.
A deep hoarse voice of the seller on the footstool is heard with a rhythm. Of course, unless you are from the same business, one cannot comprehend what the auctioneer is saying. Although the fish is auctioned off left to right, there are times where it goes undecided and a coin is tossed. There are several auctions going on simultaneously, all methodically done so as to appear choreographed. As soon as the tuna is auctioned, it is whisked away on wheels for processing.
As one is deeply absorbed in watching and experiencing the auction, it is over in approximately thirty minutes. From 5:00 AM, the market finds another target - fish from the neighboring waters, such as sea bream and shrimp. Again, the auction takes place in several different places, so the market is overflowing with liveliness.
As the winter sunrise is late, by the time the sky over the east begins to lighten, the auction for fresh fish comes to an end. | |
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