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Nara prefecture, which,
in Kojiki (the oldest book in Japan) is identified as the
country's origin, is a basin surrounded by mountains and hills.
The surrounding mountains, Unebiyama, Amanokaguyama, and Miminashiyama,
are frequently noted in Manyo-shu (the oldest book of poetry
in Japan). The valley is filled with genial rice paddy fields that
extend for great distances, and the serene water that runs through
this deep green valley have always been the common sights of Nara.
This ancient capital was the end of the Silk Road from the east,
blending goods, ideas and culture from China and its neighboring
countries in the West. The capital later moved to Kyoto, where elegant
Imperial culture flourished, but the roots of the culture started
in Nara. So let us now visit the culinary world of Nara, where we
will find the roots of Kyoto food.
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There is one type of food,
which is a result of the basins extremely hot summers and cold winters:
somen. Somen came from China during the Nara period
(710-784) and has become a popular product made at the foot of Miwasan
(Mt. Miwa). Conditions around this area such as the climate, the waters
from Hase River and Makimuku River used to run the mills, and the
cold dry wind, referred to as "Miwasan oroshi," makes it a
perfect place for making somen.
Somen is dried wheat flour mixed with goma oil (sesame oil) and
salt dried in configuration like a rope, once called "mugi nawa"
(roped wheat). The mugi nawa hung and dried in front of the
house, became a popular product on farms as it was easily preserved
without spoiling. Over time, the drying rope became thinner and thinner
so that the noodles would dry faster, and Miwa somen became
thin, yet retained its tough texture. This was the result of a severe,
cold climate and the dryness of the area during the winter months.
Kuzu is another basic element in Japanese cuisine, which originates
from this area. The severe weather conditions of the basin contribute
to kuzu making, a necessity for Japanese sweets and dishes.
Yoshino kuzu is made in the northern Yoshino Mountains - famous for
its cherry blossoms - and Ouda. Both regions are famous for its kuzu
production.
Yoshino kuzu is made during the cold wintry months from the root
of the arrowroot grown deep in the mountain ranges of Yamato. When
starch taken from the root is refined by water, you have yoshino-kuzu.
At "Kurokawa Honke" in Oudacho, the veteran craftsmen continue to
make the finest yoshino-kuzu using the same method without
any fire that has been used for over 400 years. "Good water and extremely
cold weather determines the quality of kuzu. If the water temperature
is too high, it is difficult to separate the tannin and other impurities
in the kuzu," says Kurokawa Shigeyuki, the eleventh master
of Kurokawa family. The starch from crushed fibers of the arrowroot
plant is refined in cold well water - so cold that your hands feel
numb - for 48 hours. The starch is then refined in fresh well water
again, after the water with grounds is eliminated. This is called
kan-zarashi (cold refinement), and after the procedure is repeated
five times over the course of 10 days, the kuzu is then dried
by cold wind. Yoshino-kuzu, with its unique flavour, is used
as the valued ingredient of yoshino-ni (stew), goma-dofu
(sesame tofu) and high-class Japanese sweets. |
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Nara is also known for its
famous sake making. Sake-kasu (refuse from the sake
brewing process) is a tasty one. Vegetables pickled in the sake-kasu
as early as the Nara period were known as shiru-kasu-zuke.
There is a historical story that this shiru-kasu-zuke was greatly
supported by Tokugawa Ieyasu (a shogun) and his warriors during the
Osaka Natsu-no-jin (Osaka Summer War of 1615). Ever since, this shiru-kasu-zuke
of Nara has spread across the country, and during the course of time,
has become known as Nara-zuke. Hundreds of years ago, white
melon was used for Nara-zuke, but during the Edo Period
(1603-1867), eggplants, small oriental picking melon, and cucumbers
were pickled for Nara-zuke. After being pickled for three years,
the Nara-zuke turns into amber color, with the aroma of sake,
stimulating ones appetite. However, the people of Nara also enjoy
the one-year kasu-zuke, which is ready during the summer months.
It is oriental picking melon haya-zuke (fast pickled), special
to this area.
When talking about its history, kasu-zuke is not alone. Cha-gayu
(rice gruel cooked in tea) is also known for its history and taste.
We know that it has been a delicacy for over 1200 years since we know
that it was on the menu for Shuni-e (water-drawing) ceremony
at Todaiji Temple (Nigatsudo). Cooking rice gruel in tea -
as simple it may sound today was difficult in the days when rice gruel
was cooked with millet, barnyard grass, potatoes and other vegetables.
Back then, the rice gruel was a way to eat cold rice, so cha-gayu
was considered a luxury meal. This reflects the rich culinary lives
of the people of ancient capital. Its refined taste is very particular
in that its taste must be a dry, with not too much stickiness to its
texture.
One also notices many persimmon trees when travelling in Nara. Every
farmhouse has a persimmon tree with large red fruit on it. This is
one of the features of autumn Nara scenery - a scene as old as Japanese
culture.
Kakinoha-zushi is made using persimmon leaves, and is a delicacy
of the Yoshino region. In mid Edo period, mackerel taken at
Kumano Sea was salted and carted across Nara. It was just ready to
eat when it arrived in the Yoshino region. Villagers made sushi
with this mackerel, and used persimmon leaves for its preservation.
The leaves of astringent persimmons contain tannic acid, which congeals
protein. This not only makes the mackerel tasty, but acts as preservative.
It is a much-loved delicacy in Nara, where there is no open water
close by. Kakinoha-zushi is enjoyed today during the summer
festive days. The elegance of the old days and flavor is still enjoyed
in this sushi with the aroma of persimmon, kakinoha-zushi.
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| Yanagi
chaya |
Process
of drying somen |
Nigatsudo
Hall of Todaiji Temple |
somen
etc. |
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