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With Japan Sea to the north and the Inland Sea to the south,
Hyogo Prefecture covers 8,400 square kilometers, the largest prefecture in the
Kansai area. Hyogo consists of five "old" provinces, Settu, Harima, Tajima, Tamba,
and Awaji. Each province features a different climate and culture, and over the
course of history, each has developed a rich palate and culinary culture. For
this reason Hyogo is referred to as the epitome of Japan. Western influences introduced
by way of via port of Kobe greatly contributed to the cuisine of Hyogo. Lets
introduce the culinary world of Hyogo which enjoys both "gifts of nature" from
the mountains and the sea, and "gifts from the port."
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Gifts from the two seas
Although Japan is an island surrounded by the sea, Hyogo is the only prefecture
in mainland Honshu besides Aomori (Northern most prefecture in Honshu), and Yamaguchi
(Southern most prefecture in Honshu) that is adjacent to two bodies of water.
It also shares a vast green land in the Chugoku Mountain range, which is abundant
in fresh produce. Hyogo is literally "an appetizing, or lucky land" with fresh
fish from Japan Sea and the Inland Sea, as well as produce from the mountains.
On the Tajima coastline by the Japan Sea, fishing provides many different delights.
The king of winter Japan Sea, Matsuba Gani (snow crab) has the highest
catch in the entire country. During the months of November through March, inns
and hotels in the area see a full crowd searching for crab and onsen (hot
springs). It is an attraction not only for locals but for those from all over
Japan.
The Inland Sea, the sea to the south, also competes as a source for fresh fish.
Akashi dai (sea bream), Akashi tako (octopus), sea bass, sand eel,
and conger eel are just some of the catch. The Inland Sea is, indeed, the fishpond
of Kansai area. A renown tourist attraction is Akashi's "Uo no tana" (fish
shelf). The unique name is owing to the fact that the fishmonger laid their goods
on boards under running water. This style of presentation was common in a castle
town located by the water during the Edo period (1603-1867). That the Uo
no Tana still exits today indicates the importance of the Akashi Strait as
a rich fishing ground as well as a transportation route. Akashi, where both Saigoku
Kaido and Miki Kaido (kaido was the term used, before the modern period, for main
highways) crossed, was frequented by various travelers and Saigoku daimyos
(feudal lords) who made periodic trips to Edo. Cargo and fishing boat frequently
arrived at the ports and fish from Akashi were distributed all over Japan. Akashi
dai and Akashi tako were also noted in Manyo-shu (the oldest
book of poetry in Japan) and it is said that during Sengoku (Warring States)
period (1467-1568), the national unifier Toyotomi Hideyoshi sent dried sea bream
and octopus (both well-known for their exquisite taste) to the warlord Oda Nobunaga.
Even today, approximately fifteen shops on the Uo no tana sell fresh fish,
and twenty odd shops sell dried and processed fish. One is also able to find the
akashiyaki stands where the small griddled balls of with boiled octopus
coated in flour are sold. These Akashi yaki are different from those takoyaki
found in Osaka since they are served with soup instead of sauce. By noon, people
come for mae mono (fresh fish from nearby sea) auctioned at Akashiura Fishing
Cooperative. It has become common knowledge to Kobe housewives as the noon catch
from Akashi is now also available in markets in supermarkets of Kobe City. Although
Kobe is a big city and supermarkets have supplanted fresh markets, the fresh catch
remains a special feature of the city. It is also another common knowledge that
sea bream and octopus of Akashi are tasteful because the rapid current makes the
fish lean, and they all feed off the plankton, shrimp, and crab from the Inland
Sea, all so very rich in nutrients.
Another gift from the sea, although not as known as sea bream or octopus, is Akashi
nori (seaweed). This is somewhat hidden yet popular delicacy. The current,
nutrients in the seawater, and water temperature of Akashi Strait provides an
optimal environment for cultivating seaweed. A full 18% of Japan's entire production,
number one by far, comes from the Akashi Strait. The strait is also the leading
source of shipments of young sardines, hard finned fish, bass, and sand eel. The
total output generated from Hyogo Prefecture's fishing amounts to almost half
of that of entire Kansai area's output, and the produce of the fishing industry
is an important base for Keihanshin (Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe) area's food supply. With
two seas, Hyogo Prefecture is indeed a treasure trove of gifts from the sea.
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