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Kansai's
"food"
Okumura:
There are three major cities in Kansai: Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe,
each with different mentality of its own and distinct culinary
world. Kyoto, with 1200 years of history, has the techniques
of gorgeous dishes served at the Imperial palace, very appealing
to the eye. Osaka originated as jinaimachi(*1)
for Ishiyama Honganji, one of the main religious centers.
In Osaka, where there were few feudal lords present, merchants
pursued more or less (good food for low price) and efficiency
in their cooking. On the other hand in Kobe, the ports opened
their doors to foreign influence during the Meiji period (1868-1911).
Kadokami:
Kyo ryori was developed from a mixture of yushoku
ryori (dishes for court nobles), shojin ryori (vegetarian
food eaten by Buddhist priests), kaiseki ryori (simple,
artistic meal originally served before the tea ceremony) and
obanzai, (Kyoto's home cooking) from the masses. This
combination not only was appealing to the eye but had a good
balance in taste as well. Kyoto is also renowned for its low
eating out percentage, which naturally led to a good market
system, allowing one to prepare for everything in one shopping
trip. From the olden days, the farmers from the northern part
of Kyoto came to the markets of Demachi yanagi (downtown Kyoto)
to sell their produce, and with the money earned, they bought
agricultural machinery and seeds in return. Everything regarding
food circulated and formed in Kyoto, which may be somewhat
of a root of the "slow food"
(*2) as we refer today.
Okumura:
Currently, our government is supporting locally grown
goods to be locally consumed, but already in Kyoto where vegetables
and dried food are the main part of the meal, locally grown
vegetables are most commonly used. In order to cook these
ingredients, skills to cook, such as stewing and dressing
with vinegar or soybean paste have become the characteristic
of Kyoto cooking. I think the basis for Japanese cooking and
flavor can be found here in Kyoto. Basis is home cooking-that
is similar to the origin of French cooking as well.
Murakami:
In retrospect, in Kobe, freshness and the quality of ingredients
such as fish from the Inland Sea and Kobe beef holds the key.
It is Kobe cooking's characteristic that these ingredients
are used to their full potential. Hyogo has Settsu, Tanba,
Tajima, Harima, and Awaji as its old provinces, each with
its own distinct ingredients. People have coupled these ingredients
with foreign influence and culture to seek the best preparation
methods. For example, teppan yaki began with serving
meat at an okonomiyaki (flour based pancake like food
with "okonomi" topping; topping as you like.) restaurant
to a foreigner. Later on, new ideas such as garlic and fish
was added onto the menu, as we see it today. "Teppan yaki"
has become a universally used word. It is indeed a very tasty
way to eat meat.
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Okumura:
Kobe does not tend to intrude on outside people and
its influence, so it is easy for "foreign" influence to
develop here. On one hand, Kyoto brings out the tradition,
which sometimes may be too heavy, but they are still able
to make a break in that tradition. The old and the new coincide
in harmony here. Kyoto goes well with nihon-shu (sake)
and Kobe goes with wine. Kobe, Ashiya, and Takarazuka have
the highest wine consumption in the Kansai area, and there
is a high consumption for cheese and confectionaries in
this Kansai triangular zone.
Kadokami:
Osaka is said to be the city of "kuidaore" (indulging
food until bankrupt), and indeed the people are tough and
greedy when it comes to food. The character is uniquely
common to those of our neighboring Asian countries - having
a strong stomach, and is not afraid to try new food. However,
in reference to Osaka's identity with food, I fear that
it is starting to disappear.
Okumura:
Kamigata ryori and Kansai kappou originated in Osaka. Edo had
sashimi culture - to "split" ( ),
while Kyoto used vegetables and dried food in their "cooked" food ( ).
Osaka was geographically situated where it was easy to use fish from the Inland
Sea and off the shores of Sennan, good vegetables from the nearby farms - having
the best of both worlds. Together, we call it 
(kappou). It is only the end of Meiji period when Kyoto was able to make kappou.
With the decline of economy, the culinary culture took a plunge, and Osaka became
known for takoyaki (flour based griddled ball with squid in center), okonomiyaki
and kitsune udon (udon with fried tofu). There should be more for which
Osaka should be famous, but the region is not good at self-promoting compared
to Kyoto, so more efforts need to be done in this area.
1 Jinaimachi: A town
within the precincts of a temple built later in the Middle
Ages. Osaka originated as jinaimachi for Ishiyama Honganji,
one of the main religious centers.
2 Slow Food: A NPO started in 1986 in a small village in
Italy to preserve traditional ingredients, quality food
and drinks. One of the themes also include educating adults
and children on tasting.
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